PLEASE NOTE: This is historical information as the railroad has been torn down and no longer exists.
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Hi Rich,
Enjoy your posts. I have a simple but odd question. The L&N locomotive that you have pictured on your home web page; who is the manufacturer of it?
Thanks, a fellow L&N modeler from Northern Indiana.
Thank you! The loco on my home page crossing the trestle is a Proto 2000(R) U28B, L&N #2500. Walthers has just recently re-released this number with as “improved” with better detail and a Tsunami sound decoder. The part number for the sound equipped unit is 920-41654 and is lists for $299. The non-sound unit is 920-48654 and list for $199. They also have sound & non-sound in #2502. I purchased one of the new sound equipped units and I find it to be superior over the older units (that had a QSI sound decoder) in low speed performance, looks (detail) and sound.
Rick
Thanks Rick for your response,
I have enjoyed following your blogs over the many months. I too model the L&N (HO scale); it’ a line that has much history, itwas even tied in with the Monon which ran through western Indiana. My layout is rather small (4×10) but it fulfills it’s purpose. I live in a small town in northern Indiana, referred to as the Orthopedic capital of the world. If you ever have a knee or hip replacement, chances are it was manufactured in Warsaw. We also have rail lines which cross in our town. It was encouraging finding out that you to are a fellow believer in the Lord.
So much for now, I thought that I would relate a little about myself.
Rick,
I was doing a Google search on how to make signs from pictures in HO scale. The project includes taking actual pictures of advertisements located at passenger stations and adding them to my club layout. I came across your comments on the MRH forum where you took real pictures and used a program to create the signs. Can you elaborate a little more on the process? Would Microsoft Paint work? What size did you reduce the image?
Thanks,
Lamont
Lamont,
Thank you for your post! I’ve used a number of graphic programs to make signs including MS Paint, Adobe, and various freeware programs. Regardless of the program, the basic steps are the same: 1.) Start with a sign image – either one you got off the web or from a picture you take yourself and import; 2.) Determine the finished size that you want; 3.) Using the “Crop” tool remove any unwanted items from the picture; 4.) Using the “Size” tool resize the image (making sure to have the “maintain Aspect Ratio” button checked). An an example for HO a 4′ x 8′ (48″ x 96″) sign I would divide the real world size by 87 to come up with the actual size – 48″ divided by 87 = .55″ by 96 divided by 87 = 1.1″. So the printout size will be .55″ x 1.1″. I sometime round the size and in this case the printout size would be .5″ x 1″; 5.) I then weather the sign using the “airbrush” tool with grays, browns, rust colors. I always save a un-weathered copy of the sign before weathering so if I don’t like the way it looks I can use that copy, create a new image, and try weathering again. If your software doesn’t have an airbrush tool or you prefer you can always weather the printed sign using traditional methods. I hope that this helps. Rick